
In early March my wife and I and another couple spent 12 days in Bora-Bora, Moorea, and Tahiti. I thought I would write up some trip notes since one thing we noticed was how bad many of the online sources had become, as they were often overwhelmed with slop. So here’s some ground-truth. First, for the budget-conscious, the total cost of the trip (airfare, meals, lodging, activities) was about $2800 per person. We stayed at Airbnb and rented cars, bought groceries together, and were 4 persons, so that probably reduces costs as opposed to 2-person costs. There are economies of scale in groceries and transport. Driving 30 minutes to a beach is spread across 4 persons instead of 2. I would encourage you to plan along those lines, and even think that 6-8 persons would be a good number. We mostly did snorkeling and hiking, and those can be even more rewarding with a few more people. Snorkeling benefits from people spotting interesting stuff and calling out to the others (which is the normal snorkel ethos anyway- if you see something amazing it’s nice to call out to people around). Ok on to specifics.
We flew out of San Francisco. Caltrain from San Jose to San Francisco. We flew on French Bee. Airfare was about $700 for the round-trip. It is a discount airline. You could buy food on it. We brought snacks and stuff. Seats were fine- a little tight. You can get even cheaper if you don’t need/care about an assigned seat. On the way back both couples were in 3-seat rows with an empty seat. So it was as comfortable as you can get outside of reclining seats. We all thought the staff and flight was excellent.
Landing in Pape’ete, we waited 4 hours at airport for flight to Bora-Bora on Air Moana. A little boring, but not much to do in a town from 5am-8am! We could have scheduled a tighter connection, but this ended up fine, since usually you can’t check-in anyway until afternoon. After landing in Bora-Bora airport motu (little island on the reef) we took the free ferry to main island, and rented a car at Avis. Very smooth. We had a fair amount of snorkel stuff, so was a little tight in the car, but we made it work. Only a 15 min. drive to the Airbnb. The Airbnb was a cool house that according to the manager had been built in Java, disassembled, and rebuilt on the beachfront lot. It had snorkeling right off the beach, and a dock going out about 100 feet. We ended up moving a table out to the end of the dock and eating dinner over the water just like the people paying $1,000 a night in the over-water bungalow hotels đ We sat out for several hours after dinner just watching the stars and the occasional storm and lighting come through. The view was spectacular. We shopped at a couple grocery stores just 5-10 min. away. Food is expensive – a six-pack like $15, vegetable selection limited, eggs only early in the morning, stuff like that. But we had no trouble getting plenty of snacks and cooked some really nice simple dinners (I am vegetarian so that was a small constraint that travel-mates were very kind to accommodate).
We had 3 full days in Bora-Bora. One day we took an all-day (9-4) boat trip that ends with nice lunch on a motu (small private island). We stopped at the usual 3 snorkel places: (1) fantastic coral garden; (2) shallow waist-high water with rays and green-tipped reef sharks; (outside the reef in deeper water, with super interesting coral and different sea life. On the motu we ate at picnic tables in the shallow water as rays came and begged (only way to describe it) for food, and other fish nibbled on the occasional “dropped” cucumber. It was very pleasant to walk around the small paths of the motu and see land snails, varied vegetation, etc. The boat crew put on a little show. Everything very good-humored⊠The other days we snorkeled some cool beaches. Mostly we were alone or with 3-4 other snorkelers. Definitely no crowds! Matira Beach is a big sandy strip. Had to swim a ways (to the point) but there had quite decent snorkeling and saw rays each time. We then drove out to Pointe Taâihi at the other end of the island, which had a “manta ray cleaning station” and sure enough some other snorkelers pointed us to a 10-foot manta circling in deeper water under us. Majestic to quietly watch! There was perfectly fine parking on side of road. We drove around the island a couple times, and occasionally took a drive up the hills. A nice stop was Patisserie St. James in the morning, where can enjoy coffee croissants etc with a nice view of the lagoon. We liked Lucky House for dinner. Leaving in morning have to remember need an hour to take ferry out to airport. Filling rental car with gas was very easy.
We flew back to Pape’ete, rented a car at the airport, and then drove over to the ferry to Moorea. We had booked tickets and place for car a couple days before. Finding exactly where to go to put the car on the ferry took us 2 drives around. Basically have to slowly read signs and we missed it first time. There are a lot of entrances into various locations in the docks/ferry building, only one is for the car ferry⊠But we had an approximate guess, and then when drove around second time (and not obvious can do U-turn on the waterfront road in downtown Pape’ete!) we went really slow and clearly saw the entrance. Sea was calm, so 40 minute ferry was a pleasure! Snack bar! Espresso! You could even rent bikes in Pape’ete and ride them on to ferry and then have bicycles in Moorea. The island is definitely bike-able if that is your thing. But we were happy to have a car for luggage and groceries, and to explore even further.
On Moorea we had an AirBnb right on the beach. We immediately went in for a snorkel and there was interesting coral and sea life all around. Not great, but certainly fine for a 30 minute swim. We must have done 10 such swims over the course of the 3 days including night swimming. Lagoon water perfect for swimming. The first day we went up to Temea beach, but it was windy and there was low visibility, so we drove on to Opunohu Beach. Great snorkeling there for a couple hours. Ate at a roulotte – very good food. I think we then decided to drive around the island, and we stopped at some fruit stands. That afternoon I solo hiked to ‘Äfareaitu Waterfall. I did about 6 miles- it was hot and humid, I drank 3 liters (I had brought my filter so refilled at a stream). waterfall great. Next morning I hiked it again with travel-mates.
Next day we did a half day (did we need the “show” again?) boat snorkel trip with captain/guide Alex (Alex Lagoon Tour), who was highly recommended by a friend of a friend (also named Alex!), and we all agreed that was one of the highlights of the trip. Super great captain, very chill. He took us to four places, the last a coral reserve. It was truly amazing, the way coral must have been everywhere before the die-offs started 20 years ago. We then had lunch at O2Coco, which was just fine, and then did an afternoon hike up Magic Mountain. In the heat a short but tough hike, well-rewarded by excellent views.
The next morning we took the ferry back to Pape’ete, and went to Carrefour for groceries, and then checked in to spectacular AirBnb in the hills. It had amazing views and a small pool. Was nice to be in pool water after all the ocean water. We luxuriated on the balcony into the evening, enjoying the vista. The next day we drove out to the beach at Pointe Venus. My wife and I had a long 2-3 hour swim, travel-mates did a waterfall hike. In the afternoon we went to PK18 (Plage Vaiava) and had really great snorkeling. Sea life again amazing, though a lot of the coral bleached. The next day we went to a small public botanical garden (Jardin d’Eau de Vaipahi), drove a bit more around Tahiti, and then snorkeled at PK15 (Plage publique de Toaroto).
Early the following morning we drove down to the airport. Returning rental car took 10 minutes and checking in to French Bee was super fast. Everything went really smooth, and a great flight back. Not much time difference between Tahiti and San Francisco (2-3 hours as we straddled DST), so we didn’t really have any jetlag.